06.24.08
Majestic Khaptad
By Bhojraj Bhat
Khaptad — situated in the midmountain region of Far-Western Nepal — lies on a plateau where the districts of Bhajhang, Bajura, Doti and Achham meet. The vegetation of the park varies from sub-tropical in the lower altitudes to temperate forest with grasslands on the Khaptad plateau with 225 square kilometer of area. The common tree species are rhododendron, chir pine, spruce, fir, maple, birch and alder. Dense stands of bamboo (nigalo), prairie flowers, and a variety of medicinal herbs occur inside the park.
The common mammals of the park are leopard, musk deer, goral, yellow-throated marten, Himalayan black bear, Himalayan tahr and langur monkey. The common bird species include Impeyan pheasant (danphe), chukor, partridge, kalij pheasant, monal, red and yellow-billed blue magpie and Himalayan griffin. A variety of colorful butterflies, moths and insects are also found here.
The core area of the park is an important religious site. The park is home to the Ashram of Khaptad Swami, a renowned spiritual saint, along with other religious areas and temples.
The forest comprise a mixture of tall fir, yew, rhododendron and oak along with dense stands of bamboo and numerous shrubs, and represents one of the last remaining such areas in the lower Himalaya. The vegetation provides a natural habitat for healthy population of wildlife, including the musk and barking deer, bears various birds including the impedance pleasant. One flower. Known as Bheeg and resembling a white rose, grows in several parts of the park. It is said to be so poisonous that single sniff from close up can be lethal !
Khaptad Swami among Nepalis, Khaptad is best known as a holy site and is closely associated with a widely revert ascetic who lived here for Mandu years and who was known simply as the ‘Khaptad Swami’. The origins and background of Khaptad Swami, who died in 1996 at the grand old reported age of 110, are shrouded in mystery. He was undoubtedly a good, learned and widely read man who also had a good command of English. He lived in a cave on the eastern side of the park to where pilgrims traveled from far and wide to see him and receive his counsel and blessings.
-भोजराज भाट
कुनै वेला वेला भारतको जम्मुकश्मिर जन्मेका श्री १००८ परमहंस सच्चिदानन्द सरस्वती स्वामीलाई राजा वीरेन्द्रले बुढानिलकण्ठमा सुविधासपन्न मठ बनाइदिने सदिच्छा राख्दा उनले तुरुन्तै जवाफ फर्काए, “मेरो मन पर्ने स्थान खप्तड हो, यसको विकल्प भनेकै यही ठाउँ हो ।” त्यसपछि वीरेन्द्रले उनको इच्छा पुर्याउन एक सैनिक गुल्म खप्तडमा तैनाथ गराए । पछि, त्यही गुल्मले खप्तड राष्ट्रिय निकुञ्जको पनि सुरक्षा गर्न थाल्यो ।
वर्षमा चार महिना हिउँले सेताम्मे हुने खप्तडको हावापानी अन्य पहाडभन्दा विशिष्ट खालको छ । यहाँ अन्य आठ महिनामा पनि छिनभरमा घाम लाग्ने, बादल ढाक्ने र पानी पर्ने हुन्छ । ३२०० मिटरको उचाइमा रहेको खप्तड हिन्दुकुश हिमालय पर्वत श्रंखलासँग जोडिएको छ । तैपनि यहाँको जमिन थलथले छ । हिंड्दा खुट्टा गाविन्छ । खप्तडको कुनै पनि त्यस्तो ठाउँ छैन, जहाँ सुख्खा जमिन होस् ।
हिमाली क्षेत्र भए पनि शितोष्ण -सव-अल्पाइन जङ्गलले भरिभराऊ ठाउँ । लटम्मै घाँसे मैदान र मैदानमा फुलेका सयौंथरि फुलहरू । एउटै क्षेत्रमा २२ वटा विशाल पाटनहरू भएको खप्तड आफैंमा रहस्यको पोको भएको छ । त्रिवेणी, सहस्रलिङ्ग, खापरदह, नागढुङ्गा, गणेशस्थानलगायत विभिन्न किम्दन्ती बोकेको यस ठाउँमा कति प्रकारका जडिबुटी पाइन्छन् भन्ने ठोस अध्ययन अनुसन्धान भएकै छैन । राजधानीबाट एक हजार किलोमिटर दुरदराजमा पर्ने खप्तडको रहस्य खोतल्न अहिलेसम्म् कुनै विशेषज्ञको पाइलो परेको छैन ।
संयोगवश, मलाई यसपटक खप्तड जाने अवसर जुर्यो । खप्तडबाबासम्बन्धी नानाथरि परिकल्पना बोक्दै मैले सुरू गरे, काठमान्डु-धनगढीको यात्रा । धनगढी विमानस्थलमा उत्रिएपछि सुरू भयो, दिपायल सिलगढीको यात्रा । अत्तररियाबाट किया माइक्रो बस चढेपछि ६ घन्टामा पुर्याइदिने रहेछ, सिलगढी । एक दिन सिलगढी बास बसेपछि त्यसको भोलिपल्ट १५ किमि टाढा शान्तिबजारसम्म मोटरमा गइ त्यहाँबाट उकालो उक्लिनु पर्ने भयो ।
उसो त बझाङ, बाजुरा, डोटी र अछामगरि चार जिल्लाको संगमस्थल हो खप्तड । आजकाल वैतडीको खोड्पे भएर बझाङबाट बसयात्रा गरेपछि त्यहाँ जम्मा चार घन्टामै खप्तड पुगिन्छ । तर, म सिलगढी पुगिसकेकोले फेरि वैतडी फर्किने कुरै भएन । बाजुरामा अहिलेसम्म सडक नपुगेकोले त्यहाँबाट जाने विकल्पमा बुझो लाग्यो । उता अछामबाट पनि सात घन्टा ठाडै उकालो पर्ने भएकोले सिलगढीबाट खप्तडतिरको यात्रा सजिलो लाग्यो । र, ल्यापटप क्यामेरा बोक्दै सोझिए सिलगढी-खप्तडको यात्रातिर ।
शान्तिबजारबाट झिङ्ग्रेना आधा दिन र झिङ्गे्रनाबाट बीचपानी हुँदै सुकीदह भएर खप्तड पुग्ने अर्को पुरापुर एक दिन । यसरी डेढ दिन लाग्दो रहेछ, सिलगढी-खप्तडको यात्रा । झिङ्गे्रनादेखि बीचपानीसम्मको पाँच घन्टा लामो उकालोले जोसुकैलाई सातो खादो रहेछ । दुःख लाग्दो कुरा, देशदुनियाँको नजरमा खप्तडको महिमा महान भए पनि स्थानीयबासिन्दा र नेताहरुको दृष्टिमा पानीपधेरोजस्तै रहेछ । उनीहरूले पर्यटकका लागि चाहिने न्यूनतम पूर्वाधार बनाएको केही पाइएन । छ घन्टाको उकालो एक ठाउँमा पनि पिउने पानी नभेटिंदा यात्रुहरू प्यासले प्याकप्याक हुँदारहेछन् । अनि खोल्साको फोहर पानी नपिइ नहुने बाध्यता आइलाग्छ ।
खप्तड पुगेपछि र्स्वर्ग पुगेको आभाष नठान्नेहरू सायदै होलान् । उकालैउकालो चढेपछि डाँडाको टाकुरामा देखिन्छ, पुरै हरियो फाँटैफाँटहरू । जताजतै रङ्गीविरङ्गी फूलहरू अनि गोठालाहरू आफ्नै धुनमा देउडा गाइरहेको दृश्य साच्चिकै लोभलाग्दो थियो । जेठको पूणिर्मामा खप्तडमा दशहरा मेला लाग्दो रहेछ । यस मेला हेर्नका लागि सुदूरपश्चिमेलीहरू घरबाटै ओढ्नेओछ्याउने वन्दोवस्त गरेर यहाँ आउँदा रहेछन् । मेलामा विभिन्नथरिका देउडाहरू, स्थानीय संस्कृति भुवो, हुड्क्या आदि प्रदर्शन हेर्न पाइयो । यही मेलाकै वेला नेपाली सेनाको सुदुरपश्चिम पृतनापति कार्यालयले विशेष पुजा गर्दो रहेछ । त्यो पुजामा सहभागी हुन हरेक वर्ष पृतनापति आफै हेलिकप्टरमा आउने चलन छ । हेलिकप्टर हेर्नकै लागि भए पनि कतिपय स्थानीयबासिन्दा यस मेलामा आउँदा रहेछन् ।
खप्तड, प्राकृतिक हिसाबले ठाउँ जति रमाइलो छ, तर त्यहाँ बस्ने खानेको कुनै व्यवस्था रहेनछ । निकुञ्जको क्षेत्र भएकोले यहाँ होटेल राख्न नपाइने नियम रहेछ । राम्रो ठाउँमा सुत्न र खानका लागि पैसा तिर्छु भन्दा पनि नपाइने रहेछ, यहाँ । तपाईंहरू पनि जीवनमा खप्तड जाने सुरसार कस्नु भएको छ भने यसतर्फ वेलेमै सचेत हुनुहोला । सकभर, बाइनाकुलर बोकेर, टेन्ट र खानेकुरा आफै बन्दोबस्त गयो भने खप्तड साच्चिकै पृथ्वीको र्स्वर्ग महसस हुन्छ तपाईंलाई ।
Naag stone.
Khaptad entrance.
A dancer from Doti performing Hudkya dance.
Nepal Army officers with MP (black cap) and locals jointly enjoying Deuda dance.
Woman selling cow milk in Bichpani near Khaptad.
A group of women from Chhanna, Bajhang in traditional dress in Khaptad.
Women from Bajhang bargain with beads seller.
Dhamis from Bhanjhang performing their Deuda.
Khaptad’s Shahastra Linga.
Khaptad Baba’s Ashram.
A self declared Mata from Kathmandu asks locals for her worship.
Women from Bhajhang, Chhanna to visit Khaptad festival.
All pics by Bjojraj Bhat
Deepak Bista said,
July 3, 2008 at 5:50 am
Thank for the report on such a beautiful place and people.
Birendra Rana, New york, USA said,
July 3, 2008 at 7:51 am
Awesome pictures, especially traditionally dressed men and women. We have several heavens in our country.
Padam Mahar said,
July 3, 2008 at 8:19 am
Brilliant picture. I fell very proud to see these pictures in internet because this is only mine natural beauty also it is in far western region. Many thanks to the photo grapher.
Manoj shrestha/ Thimi said,
July 3, 2008 at 11:16 am
After visiting all the districts of far west and mid west part of Nepal, now i feel seeing the above pictures, as if i have left again one chapter unturned.
Jeni Jain, Nepal said,
July 3, 2008 at 11:22 am
Hi Rajesh Dai.
Splendid work of Camera. Thanks alot for nice and amazing pictures.
Sushil Biukshe said,
July 3, 2008 at 1:33 pm
Very nice snaps bhattaji. but it would be mere beautiful if u had stayed there 1 more days and take few more snaps like Khaptad Daha, Danfekot, Patans, and some birds like Danfe, and flura and funa of Khaptad. anyway it was really a good job
Aaryan, Barcelona said,
July 3, 2008 at 6:39 pm
Namaskar
To all readers
Hats off and a grand salutaion to the photographer, Bhojraj Bhatt, I really don´t have any words to explain the beauty of Nepal, increedible Nepal, as the picture herein explains more than enough. Plz let me know where u learned photography its really important to see the best things out of the worst, which u had snapped down. I wish all Nepalese Citizen should have the same vision as you have, best out of worst.
Regards
Aaryan
liladhar pandey,usa,virginia said,
July 3, 2008 at 9:53 pm
wow ,such a great gob bhoj raj bhat jee. i am so pleased when i saw all picture.
it remind me my identity because i am also from far-west part of nepal.
tulsi israel said,
July 4, 2008 at 10:04 am
vojraj ji tapailae dharae thanks yar
Dr Anup Chapagain, Pokhara said,
July 4, 2008 at 10:06 am
Well done Bhoj Raj ji, ya really good job , There are many places in nepal to attract internal as well as external tourism ,,ya , now i am in Bajhang district hospital and i am planing to visit this place soon .These pictures made me more curious to be there .. ok thanx a lot …
govinda thapa said,
July 4, 2008 at 3:29 pm
very very good.best of luck.
balak/ktm said,
July 4, 2008 at 7:43 pm
really SHANGRILA, MY NEPAL
chandra,az said,
July 6, 2008 at 5:02 pm
I never heard about this place before. By reading above your article Bhoj Raj ji, I am really fascinated to get out there in one day. It sounds like ravishingly a breathtaking place. i am such a wild animals lover I wish you would sticked a few photoes of these animals and birds in here” never mind it’s just my passsions”i really admired for these people of unique lifestyles and they are still keeping a live of thier traditional inklings
Dharma RAj Acharya Dubai said,
July 29, 2008 at 9:42 am
Bro great job,its remind my childhood days in sawoone danda,chilim dhunga,n salpa pokhari ranges in khotang n bhojpur northern boarder,awesome.great explore,keep it up,n hearfull thanx.
Aandrei Jha said,
July 29, 2008 at 8:36 pm
Truly memerizing . Iwas there with my pals four years ago just after dashain……awesome man!!!!
Reena Sharma .London(uk) said,
July 30, 2008 at 10:13 pm
HI
thanks to a person who has published the information about this palce ..its really magnificiant ..as per my grand ma and grand pa we are from accham …and they use to tell us the story about khapdad baba and the place how beautiful and magical itis …and because of you guys i got a chance to see the picture of kaptad and its truly seems like a magical place ….if i every get a chance to come to nepal i will definetly try to visit this place…its really really beautiful thanks for giving us a apportunity to get to know about khaptad
regards
reena
LEKHNATH SAPKOTA (PRALAD) INDIA KOLKATA said,
July 31, 2008 at 12:52 pm
नेपाली भेस नेपाली समाज र त्यों मनमोहक दृश्य साची नै राम्रो लाग्यो . दन्यबाद
तसुन्दर्तालाई सबैको अगाडि ल्यैदिएकोमा धन्यवाद। पाईको मीहनेत्को हामी ऋदय देखि नै समान गर्दछौ/ प्रबासी नेपाल भारत
Norwich, United Kingdom said,
July 31, 2008 at 11:55 pm
Thanks for sharin’ the beauties of Khaptad.
uae dubai said,
August 1, 2008 at 8:20 am
great pic great job well done!!!!!!!!!
Sov/(NC,USA) said,
August 8, 2008 at 1:48 am
Truly awesome! Kudos to Bhojraj ji for an outstanding article.
Keep up the good work.
Milan Rawalmumbai India said,
May 30, 2009 at 6:50 pm
मेरो जन्म भुमी अछामको साउनदर्यले भरी पूर्ण र पर्यटकिय स्थलको परिचय नेट मार्फत दुनियाँमा गराइ दिनु भएको मा भोज राज भात ज्युलाई धेरै धेरै धन्यवाद। मिन रावल मिलन
बान्नातोली गा. बि. स. ८ अछाम
हाल मेला लाग्छ खप्तडमा दसैं बिसु तिजमा।
क्या राम्रो खप्तड पाटन चार जिल्लाको बिचमा।।
मुम्बई ईन्डिया
+91-9820431085
Ram Kumar said,
July 5, 2009 at 10:15 am
nepal ma ramro neta nava yera matra. bhugolik rupma prakriti le hami lai
tha ge ko chaina . sa bai 12 barse neta le khayera bache ko matra ho . yo sorga bhumi.
madanindaa rajsthan said,
July 5, 2009 at 2:16 pm
nepali culture i most like .