Phoksundo trail

Posted in फोटो फिचर at 11:14 am by www.PHALANO.com

By Devendra Bhattarai/Photos by Kumar Ale 

Our long cherished journey to Dolpo kick started as the Yeti Air plane bound for Juphal landed on the airstrip of Juphal. As we got off the aircraft, we felt as if we were at some faraway settlement.
On the trail, we came across many places – Dunai, Bhedigoth, Kagsi, Raktang, Sangta and Chhepkaka – before reaching Lake Phoksundo. The trek that had taken uphill from the confluence of Sulighat and Bheri River an hour away from Dunai continued till the Tapiricha School of Saijal, situated at the foothill of the lake. Now our destination was just an uphill walk of four hours.

We were astonished when we saw the villages, hotels and schools on the way all empty. We learnt it was the season to collect œworms in the highlands. The locals call the Yarchagumba œlife saving worms as a single bug costs from Rs 50 to 75.
œFor us, it’s like a seasonal cultivation, said Bishnu Lal Budha, the Kantipur reporter in Dolpa, œPeople have no time to stay at home during the season.



We headed towards the lake, coercing our feet against the steep mountains. The uphill trails adorned the serpentine queues of the worm collectors. The people hailed as far as from Jumla, Rolpa, Rukum and Jajarkot, and had their ration transported on the backs of donkeys and jhopas.

We were accompanied by Thinley, the chief protagonist in Caravan, from Dunai. He was on his way to his village Saldang. He, along with daughter Dawa, was returning from Kathmandu with a stock of medicines for the health post at Saldang.
œIt’ll take three more days to reach home, he said, standing on the bank of the lake.

We felt his popularity everywhere in Dolpo. The CDs of Caravan were available at the shops in Dunai. œI’m amazed when people approach me, saying they want to cast me in their products, he told us, laughing.

The emerald blue lake of Phoksundo looked tranquil and pristine that morning. Mount Kanjiroba was mirroring on the lake. To our amazement, the lake, immensely popularized by Eric Valli’s film œCaravan, was in full solitude, having literally no tourists due to the protracted conflict. Lal Bahadur KC, the Principal of Govinda Primary Scholl told City Post that œan eerie silence has enveloped this region due to the conflict.

œThough (the film) Caravan has given Dolpo an international exposure, the hardship of the people is never any less, correspondent Budha explained, œThe dispute over the depth of this lake hasn’t yet been subsided. The Department of Meteorology, in its survey three years back, had suggested the depth to be as 145 meters. However, other data contradict it to be as deep as650 meters.

The data of the Shey-Phoksundo Conservation Office too suggest that foreign tourists visiting the lake numbered just 36 till November this year. Tourists visiting this destination had reached 254 two years back. The arrival took downturn since the Maoists imposed US$100 per person as entry tariff to the area.

œIn any case, the beauty of the lake overshadows whatever, explained Principal Ghanashyam Sharma of Tapiricha School, œScores of people throng here asking for the place from where the yak fell into the lake in the film.


  1. gautam neupane tokeyo said,

    September 12, 2007 at 3:14 pm

    thanks brother

  2. Raju Rai_ Dharan said,

    September 21, 2007 at 12:26 pm

    Its very nice I lost in the beauty of Phoksundo… I really enjoy Thanks for this.

  3. Drown Gurung(UK) said,

    September 26, 2007 at 3:21 pm

    you are simply the great

  4. Samridhi, Logan,utah, USA said,

    October 2, 2007 at 11:18 am


  5. Manoj + Sati Rana+Karan Gurung,Thailand said,

    October 5, 2007 at 12:40 am

    Hi we are from Butwal-9.We have seen all the great pictures.Really It is very nice panoromic photos.Thanks

  6. Drown Grg/UK said,

    October 5, 2007 at 4:16 pm


  7. Suraj Shrestha Damauli, Tanahun said,

    October 6, 2007 at 12:01 pm

    All the neplease knows that our country is beautiful. but the many country and the people don\’t know. even neplease don\’t know the beautiful place of nepal like manang,mustang, dolpa e.t.c reason there is no veicheles no facilites which the people want. but today through phalano.com many peoples are knowing the beauty of nepal and places.
    good job phalano.com hope we can see more beautiful pics and places of nepal in coming days. And hope there will be vicheles when i will be in my country nepal and i can go there to view the beauty of nepal. ***

  8. devendra israel said,

    October 7, 2007 at 3:39 pm

    very nice keep it up

  9. dev/ sydney said,

    October 18, 2007 at 1:58 pm

    no words to describe the beauty

  10. deepak, raxaul said,

    October 22, 2007 at 3:57 pm

    Really, Nepal is a very beautifull country. It’s sublime scenary always attracts me. I go ussually to Nepal for mental peace. It’s a place where the God resides.

  11. hem pun/aus said,

    November 12, 2007 at 9:06 am

    hello dai,
    do not need to say anything, pictures speak its’ own wow… such great an beautiful snaps ..and great job.. hardly, we can have a chance to see a beautiful view of nepal even we re ne[alese… u only did a great job for all of us..i really appreciate ure brave and keep it on.. one day i will be there where u have showed us a natural beauties of nepal. thanks once again dai and phalano,com for ure contribution.
    hem pun golcoast

  12. tej p. balayar nepal said,

    December 10, 2007 at 3:12 pm

    tej p. balayar/doti nepal said

    Hi.rjesh k.c. daju, Really, Nepal is a very beautifull country. It’s sublime scenary always attracts me. I go ussually to Nepal for mental peace. It’s a place where the God resides.

    Thanking, you

  13. kassel/germany said,

    December 13, 2007 at 10:07 pm

    hi rajesh ji thanks alot for such wonderful pictures and if possible please keep some more recent photoes too .I hope you will do it for the persons who are far frm their country.Looking such pictures we feel proud of being nepali.
    hoping to have a look of more recent photoes again thank you very much.

  14. melbourne said,

    December 15, 2007 at 3:51 pm

    excellent job i really like to thank you guysfor making us home feeling with these pic .very very well picturized

  15. bikash,melbourne said,

    December 15, 2007 at 3:53 pm

    very very well pictured congartulation .it really makes me feel home

  16. surendra thapa iraq said,

    December 26, 2007 at 10:32 am

    really nice picture so that we have proud of our country nepal wanna see more amazing pics thanks for great job

  17. Kul Gurung/Calgary; Canada said,

    January 2, 2008 at 6:53 am

    Its amazingly the greatest scenes which i never seen before.
    I am so proud to be a son of Nepal ama which words can’t
    describe its natural beauty. I really appreciate your idea to
    highlights the treasures of Nepal ama, all over the worlds.
    Great job and keep it up.

  18. Yaman Swrnaar From (BPC)Kathmandu, NEPAL said,

    January 11, 2008 at 11:47 am

    Hello Dai NAMASKAR

    Thanks for visit Dolpa and collected the buautiful suaps in the Web

  19. Siddha uk said,

    January 14, 2008 at 6:40 am

    nice pictures and i want to thank you guys for such a beautyfull pictures of nesdpal

  20. karam koirala said,

    March 17, 2008 at 5:55 pm





  21. samyog kshetry said,

    June 17, 2008 at 3:15 pm

    Dolpa is our heaven so must protect this place and all of nepali will must go there and feel there system that this place is nepal or not. A t last i am proud him who tell us about dolpa.

  22. krishna singpour said,

    June 19, 2008 at 9:34 am

    hamro desh nai sorga chha ni tara ke garne tyo sabai camera photo matra simita bhayo hami jasta yuva sakti bidesh ma rahanu pareko chha ?aba ta desha lai samjhida pani …………………………?

  23. balram poudel/dubai said,

    June 21, 2008 at 2:57 pm

    All the photoes are so cute.its the heaven of the world.thanks for photograffar.

  24. kamal pandit said,

    July 3, 2008 at 7:07 pm

    You all visit PHOKSUNDO because it is a HEAVEN


    July 2, 2009 at 10:31 am


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